We arrived at the Tribuhvan airport after dark; where we arrived
was very different from the airport we had departed from. Suvarnabhumi airport
in Bangkok is very new, modern and clean. It provides one the opportunity to
purchase $10 ice cream sundaes and Channel perfume in addition to the
ubiquitous “authentic” Thai coconut cookies (which I had seen nowhere but at
the airport).
Nepal was a contrast even before the plane hit the runway.
We were given an immigration form to complete on the plane. The questions were
standard, however, the paper of the official form was incredibly thin and
somewhat coarse. Upon landing there was no jet way, one walks down a set of
stairs and onto the tarmac. The inside of the terminal was dark and worn, no Channel
or cookies to be found.
Kathmandu is the only major city in the world without 24
hours of electricity. “Load shedding” occurs every day; in theory each
neighborhood gets 12 hours per day of electricity, however, many of these hours
occur in the middle of the night so some days it seems that there is not
electricity most of the day.
My first entre to Kathmandu was unsettling and surreal. We
had arranged with the guest house where we would be staying to have a taxi meet
us at the airport. We knew we were looking
for a man named Ganesh which I took to be a good sign; Ganesh is the Hindu
deity who removes obstacles.
Walking out of the terminal was like a scene from movies I’d
seen. Because of load shedding it was
fairly dark; generators allowed for enough light to make things visible, but
not at all bright the way public places are in the U.S.
On each side of the exit doors was a metal barrier, beyond
which a mass of people were crowded and clambering, trying to find their
arriving friends and relatives. In front of us was the usual group of taxi
drivers I’ve now traveled enough to expect to see every time I get off of a
mode of public transportation overseas; all jostling and yelling for your
attention and the fare.
Among the pack we found a mildly disgruntled Ganesh (our
plane was 2 hours late), holding a sign with Ayya’s name on it. He led us
through the dimly lit parking lot to his truck. Old. Rusted. Cracked
windshield. And off we went.
There are no streetlights in Kathmandu, no stop signs. Drivers
honk their horns profusely to let other drivers know they’re coming or that
others are not driving quickly enough or that they’re going to pass (in the face
of oncoming traffic).
Traveling down dirty unpaved streets, passing rows of shops
with metal barriers all rolled down, piles of garbage and an occasional cow I
have to admit to having been frightened for the first time in my travels.
We navigated via byzantine streets to the guest house and
arrived about 11:30 pm. The metal gate was locked and Ganesh lightly pounded on
the door to attract the night guard’s attention. Our keys had been left at
reception so the guard was able to show us to our rooms.
Perspective is a funny thing…
On the first look at the room where I would be staying for 5
weeks I thought, “OMG, it’s dirty and cold in here” (there is no heat in the
rooms and the temperature at arrival was in the 40’s). But after getting over
my first week of culture shock I came to realize what an oasis that guest house
truly was.
I looked at 5 other guesthouses in the area and by far, this
was the cleanest and nicest. Located in a monastery compound it was quiet, removed
from the poor souls begging on the streets (some having lost fingers to
leprosy). It had a nice garden, a good vegetarian restaurant and I was able to
have a hot shower about 70% of the time I wanted one.
Living this itinerant life I’m learning to adapt quickly to
the new situations that arise with great frequency. Becoming content with
whatever is offered. And although this is true,
my first look at most of my new accommodations has invariably produced that
“OMG response” - which by now is just as
quickly followed by laughter at the absurdity that is this blessed life.
Note: I’m writing this from a room which necessitates my
first use of the word “squalor”. I’m in
what was advertised as an ashram but is decidedly NOT an ashram. I was planning
to stay here for 2 weeks but am leaving tomorrow after only 6 nights. Ananda
Yoga Center is a blog entry for another day...
